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7:07 am
August 13, 2010
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lilmule
| | Buchanan,Tn | |
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Ps any 12/24 troller can be made 24 v only merely by only using the 24 v wiring leads from the motor,in the case of more expensive units a seperate winding yet no harm in not using.
White .black,orange,red,eliiminate the 12 v neg and its 24 v or open circuit on 12v.And one breaker works superb,yet two are better.In effect one can still use one on an away trip if so wired by removing the broken or weak link until it can be replaced at a more opertune time.
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6:51 am
August 13, 2010
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lilmule
| | Buchanan,Tn | |
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| posts 1333 |
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Correct it wouldnt on a 12/24 system but on a 24 v troller that wont operate on 12 v wont hurt a thing,as no current draw at 12.Anything on my boats that operates on 12 v regardless of what batttery has its own breaker or fuse,if not in line I add one.Rafdo shack has inline radio type great for fepth finders,etc.Auto parts stores have fusable links for larger.They dont get weak and take a fair amount of heat to seperate.
About the dumbest thing the boating industry ever did was put a 12/24/charge run switch up front,then a plug recepticle for the charger that hasnt been around since about 1975,electrical wise that is,and never was popular to actually use,in part due to its compexiity.Semi dangerous to boat and wiring if ever in the wrong position,never ever tripping a breaker but a great immulator of cannon fuse with wiring.
Reduced voltage on a dc motor does not harm it , so if it does not operate at half capacity then the mfg has limited it via electronics,such as a board.So many are 12/24,cheaper to mfg that way.
Without that even as lil as 3 or 4 volts would spin the prop ,just wouldnt have any power,DC is the reason why AC everything would burn up.
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4:23 am
August 13, 2010
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dougw
| | Texas | |
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I've fished a lotta weeds… Guntersville, Santee Cooper(before they killed the grass), here at Coleto Creek… to name a few. Had grass so balled up on the tolling motor dang near couldn't lift it to clear it and … never tripped a breaker and that was with 40 amp breakers the new ones are 50 amp'ers.
Granted if I had been tripping breakers due to over loading I'd'a probly gotten the auto reset type. At one time this boat had a 12/24v trolling motor and I really don't recall which battery provided the 12v source. But having just one breaker on it probably wouldn't have been a good idea.
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10:16 pm
August 12, 2010
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lilmule
| | Buchanan,Tn | |
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| posts 1333 |
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Never owned one with automatic breakers had one or two that had no breakers,and several with fusable links in the wire.One manual breaker became weak while gone for a T,cure was to just remove it as two in line and 24 system ,troller wouldnt work on 12.Replaced later while not really needed to bring back to specs.
Ive never had any trouble with the mere fusable link as it doesnt get weak like a breaker but unlike a breaker wont reset.
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7:08 pm
August 12, 2010
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OutdoorFrontiers
| | Whitlock, TN | |
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| posts 1324 |
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I would have gotten the automatic breakers. But then again, that's what I do have on my boat.
I agree, having a weak breaker automatically reset can be a pain in the butt, but I've spent a lot of time in the weeds, hacking through. And that draws a lot of amps….
Resetting manual breakers is a pain! 
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Steve Huber Editor in Chief/Executive Producer OutdoorFrontiers Multi-Media
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5:40 pm
August 12, 2010
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dougw
| | Texas | |
| Member | posts 607 |
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O'tay…. here's tha' deal. Last time out on my boat I discovered I had a weak circuit breaker on one of the trolling motor batteries. Any setting higher than just a tad over 50% would trip it. I'm thinking it was a 40amp breaker. Everytime it'd trip I'd have to get off the trolling motor, open the rigging compartment and push the manual reset button. Every thing would be fine until I got into weeds n' such and kicked the trolling motor up just a little higher. Then I'd repeat the reset process over again.
I did order 2 new breakers and will replace them both and keep the old good one as a spare. I did order 50amp breakers this time and…. I had a choice of automatic or manual reset. I chose the manual reset. The reason being I want to know something is wrong. I don't want to be on the trolling motor and lose power… walk back to the rigging compartment, open it up and look in(with automatic reset there's nothing to do) then walk back to trolling motor to discover it's working again. With an automatic circuit breaker reset one could be chasing ones tail quite some time only to discover… weak breaker… that was automatically resetting. With the manual I knew it was the breaker and that's fine with me. If I have to walk back n' reset… so be it. But I will say in nearly 20 years of tournament fishing I don't ever recall having a problem with the wiring or circuit breakers, or really any problem with a trolling motor. OK… lost a circuit board on A digital motor guide in 1999 @ Santee Cooper. But other'n that… nary a problem… Unless you wanna count ramming a trailer, while trying to load the boat with a dead Mercury on the back, knocking out shaft bearings and bending the shaft….
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