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8:24 am
July 3, 2010
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dougw
| | Texas | |
| Member | posts 607 |
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Getting closer… and closer and closer….
'cept for the fuel tank stops the rigging compartment is done…. Rained alllllll day Looooong yesterday and didn't want to be working in/on a sopping wet boat. Maybe today….
 
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3:44 pm
July 2, 2010
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lilmule
| | Buchanan,Tn | |
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Uh beatuty is in the eye of the beholder,just dont look at it to long
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3:15 pm
July 2, 2010
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dougw
| | Texas | |
| Member | posts 607 |
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Never been all that concerned about color match – I mean "try" but I used to own a body shop so I'm aware of the difficulties in matching colors.
The last photo I posted was of the stringers…. Horribly delaminated stringers. They were delaminated up to where the inner liner was cut – and probably beyond and that is my concern. But…. soon enough I'll know the answer. Everything is done except for installing battery trays/batteries and battery charger – and sealing the rub rails so it doesn't take on water faster than the bilge pumps can pump it out!
When I set the fuel tank it is looks like it's not setting flat as it appears to tilt towards the back of the boat. Not looks like it does… it does. Soooo before I put the stops in to keep it from moving I'm going to fill the tank with fuel… let it go where it wants to go then put the stops in. After that… batteries and a little on-the-hose time to bleed the oil lines and it's ready to go.
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10:49 am
July 2, 2010
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lilmule
| | Buchanan,Tn | |
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In all fairness fiberglass repair the color is often hard to duplicate and mixed by hand,so it often doesnt match exactly,that said any reapair regardless of match should all be the same color all over.Even with my limited vision I see several diffferent colors< I shouldnt
That one pic almost looks like clear coat sprayed on with a spray can,I know ive done it as didnt have 4 to send to some to do properly ,now kown i did the right thing at the time as still wouldnt have been done properly most likly,just cost more.
Having researched the subject due to my own problems,I could duplicate this in my driveway in about 1 week,not taking it apart,not checking gussets stringers as doubt if were replaced anyway.
Merely pouring rot doctor where i couldnt get then doing the fiberglass to reattach ,figgure it would hold just as good if not better and cost would be about 600 bucks-1000 bucks including a transom pour of composite,that would grip it all and hold.
Cost to have repaired the jag that way would have been about 800,just didnt have it at the time,this is a do it yourself price,not from a boat repair place they want 3 k to do the same,then they want to seperate they say its necessary and it isnt,then one gets a non aligned hull ,that if it runs in a stragiht line your lucky.
Say it inst necessary as been to those mfg website,rot doctor and the compositwe pours say all that is necessary is it still be in one piece,cut transom rear out and bottom hull can be sprayed in as open between inner and outer hulls,it bonds to wood even rotten and makes new stringers,made out of much stronger matierial,it does however add weight,but also more floatation.
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10:16 am
July 2, 2010
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lilmule
| | Buchanan,Tn | |
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Well im what they call camo blind cannot percieve colors when mixed,so my own view would be diofferent than many peoples,however with my limited vision see several color differences and what i percieve to be drying or adhereing differences some with bubbles .
My own opinion it was repaired with limited time prior to any old repair not holding,suspect under normal usage one might get two years out them,under hard possibly one,key word is possibly.
My self I would use it,then sell withour the motor or electronics to someone who doesnt have much to aquire a boat willing to put some time into keeping it afloat,trailer and boat should bring 1500 or so under those conditions,showing the buyer all the repairs etc.
Keeping the motor and electronics for another hull or sell seperate,as would bring more that way than if attached to the aforementioned.
And when you come here to ky lake regardless of conditions run it like you stole it,run it like it isnt coming home with you,having it delaminate in the national T would be an excellant piece of fodder for a legal action.
And if it holds together,and if the aforementioned holes hold up(they should but life has no guarantees) then you wont need it any longer anyway.
No wouldnt feel comfortable knowings its going to evenetually happen agian,got rid of two boats gopr that reason although not exact delamination but transom failure.(alibiet rough water conditions)
Thus why I own a smaller alley stronest made in the boating industry
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8:12 am
July 2, 2010
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dougw
| | Texas | |
| Member | posts 607 |
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Bring a comfort lounge throwable floatation device wid'ja…. Y'all ain't seen what I've seen but ya' fixin' to! Now…. after viewing let me know how "comfortable" you'd be hittin' rough water in this thing. Taking into account the history of quality repairs this shop has with me….
This is just one picture but it pretty much tells it all….
If you have the stomach for it… additional pictures…
http://s876.photobucket.com/al…..dougw1515/
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7:54 am
July 2, 2010
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lilmule
| | Buchanan,Tn | |
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| posts 1446 |
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You be carefull,ot otherwise ill put mine in da water with the troller and run rings around ya.
Then outfish ya with DBBB baits as they are hot about then,late fall ithey are at their best.
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5:30 am
July 2, 2010
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dougw
| | Texas | |
| Member | posts 607 |
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KYL may be waiting but… Toledo Bend will be the proving grounds. Shortly after reconstruction is completed I'll take it there for stress testing. I won't be nice to it, the boat, and plan of stressing it pretty good. I, of course, fear the worst but there is absolutely no reason to drag this thing all the way to Tennessee only to have it come apart at the seams. If that's going to happen I'd rather have happen now so if possible I can make alternate plans….
Yeah, I thought the bulk of the weight on the port side was the better idea as well.
Somethings never change… When Ackerbloom came out with the new Sterling there were photos of it over on BBC. It was obvious that egronomics was not a consideration when designing the boat.
Port side cup holder – is located under the non-boaters rods.
Starboard side cup holder – Interferes with the shifter when a cup is in the holder.
Livewell control panel – Located BEHIND the drivers right shoulder.
View of HDS-10 screen partially blocked by steering wheel
3 – Trolling batteries located amidship. While this will no doubt help it get out of the hole getting to them in time of need is another issue. How long term gassing affects the surrounding area remains to be seen but my bet is – it won't be a pretty sight!
There's others but those observations were enough to get me banned from BBC! 
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8:53 pm
July 1, 2010
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OutdoorFrontiers
| | Whitlock, TN | |
| Admin
| posts 1440 |
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LOL, you probably will be the weiner! Lil Mule is just getting the good ol' fashioned run-around….
And it's a good thing you're getting your boat cleaned up and ready, cuz Kentucky Lake is waiting for you…
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Steve Huber Editor in Chief/Executive Producer OutdoorFrontiers Multi-Media
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1:45 pm
July 1, 2010
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dougw
| | Texas | |
| Member | posts 607 |
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O'tay…. All drain plugs are siliconed and installed. Livewell drain hoses and bilge pump discharge hoses in soaking in a tub of hot water waiting installation soon as they become a tad more flexible. I set the fuel tank in place again and it appears the 'z' clamps are going to work. Where the clamps are located the tank is making contact with the deck. There's a concave belly in the deck on the port side but I don't think it'll be an issue. I may stuff some high density foam in that area and may not. While I had the tank in I laid out battery placement for all three batteries, remote oil tank placement and a place for the battery charger. Because they did not repair the inner liner in the original manner the battery charger can no longer go where it was. But that's OK as I'm spanning the bilge trough with it and still have full access to all the pumps. So I'm good there. "IF" there aren't any surprises I should be through with the rigging compartment today. Then it's splice the console area transducer cable and reinstall the bow GPS/sonar complete. Then…. clean-up.
Having had a boat worked on before I knew…. anywhere you can't see is covered with dust/cloth and whatever. Sooo… Pulled the boat out of the garage and starting at the bow panel flushed the places I can't see. Then worked my way back to the transom. I may not have gotten it all but I bet'cha' I got most of it. 'Least now maybe it won't plug the bilge pumps up the first time I have to use them!
I may be the weiner after all what with LM's shipping delima!
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6:53 pm
June 28, 2010
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dougw
| | Texas | |
| Member | posts 607 |
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about that fuel tank…. Doubt y'all recall the photos of when I got back from Pickwick last year but I'll post a few relative to the fuel tank…
http://i876.photobucket.com/al…..0_0608.jpg
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9:06 am
June 28, 2010
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OutdoorFrontiers
| | Whitlock, TN | |
| Admin
| posts 1440 |
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dougw said:
I've got 21 items remaining on my check-off list. The last one is – Clean boat.
LOL, good luck with that. I'll clean mine and the next time I go out, something happens and the boat is all junked up again…
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Steve Huber Editor in Chief/Executive Producer OutdoorFrontiers Multi-Media
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6:30 am
June 28, 2010
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dougw
| | Texas | |
| Member | posts 607 |
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OutdoorFrontiers said:Dang, she's coming along pretty well now, wouldn't you say? Think you'll have her ready for the water by the weekend?
Maybe… I've been playing when I really should have been working. So now I've really got to work. But if not this coming weekend then the next for sure. Gotta get another thru-the-hull livewell drain fitting as the other'n pulled the mushroom off as I was tightening it. It was an old fitting and probably weak to begin with as I was just starting to get it tight when it snapped. Also have to pick up 2 more bilge drain fittings to plug all the holes in the inner liner.
I have some real concerns with the fuel tank as it does not sit flat on the deck which will cause a problem with the port side 'z' clamp. I'm going to try to force it down which will deform the tank a bit. "IF" I can do that then all will be well otherwise I'm gonna have to apply some form of "Presidential solution" to the problem.
I've got 21 items remaining on my check-off list. The last one is – Clean boat.
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6:12 am
June 28, 2010
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OutdoorFrontiers
| | Whitlock, TN | |
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| posts 1440 |
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Dang, she's coming along pretty well now, wouldn't you say? Think you'll have her ready for the water by the weekend?
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Steve Huber Editor in Chief/Executive Producer OutdoorFrontiers Multi-Media
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6:13 pm
June 27, 2010
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lilmule
| | Buchanan,Tn | |
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| posts 1446 |
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Yeah lota work there,did you check the stabilizers,jib,topsail, or main?
All to your benefit to make the best out of a situation,win or lose here.
I might even be back on the water sometime this year who knows.
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4:42 pm
June 27, 2010
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dougw
| | Texas | |
| Member | posts 607 |
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You know it's been a long time when…. ya' fer'git which side of the dash the master power switch is on!
Soooo… I'm getting just about done with the wiring. Got it wrapped with drops coming out of the main harness as required…. fill pumps, aereator pumps, stern light… OH yeah… stern light. So I get to install my new toy – after fixing a very delicate broken solider connection… that wasn't broken before it went to Florida. Was a PITA but after about an hour got'er done. Got it physically installed. It has three wires, one being a constant 12v so I'm using a trailer connection plug w/one wire cut off. Get it wired up time to test…. Power on light comes on staff extends. Power off…. light goes out staff retracts and keeps retracting… motor won't go off. Break the battery connection and start trouble shooting. Come to find out it wasn't the stern light motor running continous, it was the bilge pumps. Oh WHAT NOW??? Figure the solid state bilge pump switch is broke. Disconnect the constant 12v power to it. Turn the power on… Bilge pumps run… Well crap…. Break out test light and jumper and crawl under the dash… THEN… I realized… What I thought was the power switch was the bilge pump switch and it operates independent of the power switch. OK… now we're on to something. Turn on the real power switch – ahhhh no bilge pumps running. Hit the nav lights… Light goes on… staff goes up. Nav lights off…. light goes out n' staff goes down… Ahhhhhh "…getting better all'a time…" BUT…. then I check the bow lights…. Nav liight switch "ON"… no bow lights. WHAT NOW…. But I had a pretty good clue of "what now". The yo-yo's in Florida…. Pull the bow panel, check the wiring connector… Yup, disconnected. Plug it back in… wa'la… ev'a things working as it should. Now… heat shrink stern light butt connectors n' check it off the list. Got a few more cable ties to install and for the most part the wiring will be done. Next is connecting up the plumbing. I went back to West Marine and they did have the livewell strainers that are stainless steel and screw on. So I'll be able to check that off'a the list. Hook up livewell fill hoses and live well drain hoses and that's done. Then the fuel tank goes in and gets secure after which I can install the battery trays/hold downs(found some good ones at West Marine), Install batteries and remote oil tank and rigging compartment is done. Still to go is drain plug for the bilge and inner liner and I did drill a hole in the inner liner to drain the water and will be installing yet another drain plug inside the boat.
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10:32 am
June 27, 2010
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lilmule
| | Buchanan,Tn | |
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| posts 1446 |
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Thats a good question,ive had several nboats that tend to collect water in the back on either side seperated by a wall,frilling does eliminate most of it as drains but also opens up wood to rot,if present.
My lil alley has a habit of collecting it just in front of the driver as its lower there than elsewhere aint drilling hole in the floor,seat also had a hold water problem that I can drill,as its plastic with a cover.Yes standard seat is available but bout it with a plactic bucket and a cover apparently several styles available,but its just like a cheap monderistic chair made oput of plastic other than their cover,and yes plan on srilling it ,getting tired of plopping down in water ,several days after a rain.
Kinda figure its a cost thing,and easier for you to circumvent then them as then they would be responsible.
Mfg themselves drill quite a few for wiring etc,another good reason to have pvc inside the gunwhales,just for that.
Any boat made with wood is certainly at risk,possibly even a delamination problem with a composite dont know.
I do know this allison was and still is on the cutting edge of technology,they dont make junk,even my 20 year old boat is in decent shape.
And bring a fair price later on as a result
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7:43 am
June 27, 2010
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OutdoorFrontiers
| | Whitlock, TN | |
| Admin
| posts 1440 |
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dougw said:
Everytime I talk to Bob Ackerbloom about water between the innner liner and the hull he says "Put a hole in it" And I'm thinkin'… why don't you build a boat I don't have to drill holes in?????
I find Bob's response to be more than a little idiotic! It shouldn't be the customer's responsibility to correct manufacturer's flaws…
Why DON'T they build a boat that doesn't require the customer to drill holes? It's a reasonable enough question! 
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Steve Huber Editor in Chief/Executive Producer OutdoorFrontiers Multi-Media
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6:53 am
June 27, 2010
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dougw
| | Texas | |
| Member | posts 607 |
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I bought this about a year ago. Shortly after I purchased it BassCat came out with their new Jaguar and – it has the same unit. They've been around awhile and perhaps it'll be the feature that "seals tha' deal" when I go to sell it.
As an aside…. This boat has not seen water since September 30th of last year, 'cept for maybe rain water and the limited clean up that it went through in Florida. When I installed the bilge pumps water started running out from between the hull and the inner liner. It's been doing that pretty much since it was new. My friend that owned it before went to change out a bilge pump when the boat was approx. 3 years old. Water hydrauliced out of the screw hole and up about 4″ for quite some time. I put in inner liner drains like I had installed on my '96 and nothing came out…. Somewhere… some how water is being trapped. Everytime I talk to Bob Ackerbloom about water between the innner liner and the hull he says "Put a hole in it" And I'm thinkin'… why don't you build a boat I don't have to drill holes in????? But I am going to install a drain plug where the bilge trough steps up as a means to drain it. Don't know how much good that will do but it can't hurt.
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9:27 pm
June 26, 2010
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lilmule
| | Buchanan,Tn | |
| Member
| posts 1446 |
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An allison comes with permanent bow light ,never have to put it in,are you sure you want to get that thing wet?
It might multiply?
You know never feed or get them wet,or Gizmo isnt so cute then.
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